Category: Asia & Pacific

Shangri La. The Land of Snows. The Roof of the World. Tibet has been steeped in mystery and magic for centuries. Until the 1980s, this Buddhist land seemed forbidden, if only because of its remote location on a Himalayan plateau. Like its neighbor Nepal, it was locked away by its geography. Its average elevation was 16,000 feet and it was surrounded by insurmountable peaks. Still, it tugged at the imagination of every traveler eager to experience one of the most unique and exotic cultures on earth.

Today, Tibet is within easy reach. So you’re free to mingle among Buddhist pilgrims as they turn prayer wheels and murmur mantras amidst juniper incense. If you’re not sure where to find them, look no further than the Barkhor, a pilgrim circuit—or kora—that circumambulates around Lhasa’s Jokhang Temple, Tibet’s most important Buddhist shrine. The devout come here from all over the world to walk clockwise around these contemplative city blocks—stopping along the route for spiritual souvenirs such as prayer flags and amulets (and not-so-spiritual accessories like turquoise jewelry and cowboy hats). Commercialism aside, this is where all of Tibet—from nomads to merchants—gathers to honor Buddha.

While joining locals on the Barkhor captures any traveler’s heart, stopping to visit the grand Jokhang Temple evokes the Tibet of old. When it was built in the seventh century, it was less a center of religion and more one of science. Back then, this institution was known as the Zuglagkang—meaning the “house of religious science”—and it brought together a scholarly lot that pre-dated Buddhism. They followed the shamanistic precepts of Bon, and so studied geomancy, astrology, and other forms of divination. That original air of mystery remains as yak butter lamps flicker in the dim light, incense wafts from dark corners, and pilgrims prostrate before altars. All is hushed and tranquil here; the noise of the outside world retreats.

Some three miles away, the Sera Monastery stretches across one corner of the ancient city. It too was founded as a learning center. It remains so today, one of three university temples in Tibet. Its name suggests that learning and intellect blossom here—se ra in Tibetan translates as “wild roses.” Nowhere is that more clearly on display than during the so-called “monk debates,” in which students participate in passionate discussions about Buddhist doctrine. As much pageantry as it is deliberation, the debates follow strict procedure and are enlivened with vigorous gestures, each of which carries its own meaning.

The shimmering jewel in Lhasa’s crown is the Potala Palace, the massive white and ochre fortress that dominates the skyline. Today, Potala is a museum, but it once housed the Tibetan government. Its White Palace, comprising the eastern wings, was the living quarters of the Dalai Lama while the Red Palace in the center of the building served a religious function. Until the 20^th century, Potala was the world’s tallest building, even soaring almost twice the height of the Gothic spires of Europe’s cathedrals. From the bottom-most buildings at its base to the rooftop measures 1,000 feet. But its height isn’t the only impressive number. This 17^th-century palace boasts more than 1,000 rooms, 10,000 chapels, 200,000 statues, and a network of dungeons.

Unravel the mysteries of Lhasa and Tibet with Gate 1 Travel today!

High on the Tibetan plateau, a glacier-fed stream trickles down the western slope of Geladandong Mountain. As it plummets in elevation, other waterways strengthen its surge, pushing it past walls of mountains and into valleys, past yak herds, rice paddies, and wide-open farms.

This is the mighty Yangtze, third longest river in the world and one of the largest waterways by volume. Its course has shaped the fate of China’s history and culture over millennia, a source of drinking water, irrigation, transit, and legendary tales. To say nothing of the breathtaking beauty of the Three Gorges. This 75-mile stretch could well provide some of the most dramatic scenery of any river in the world, thanks to the towering mountains that guide the water’s winding route.

Ming Mountain and the city of Fengdu oversee the Yangtze from its northern banks, providing the perfect riverside vantage point for the spirits that many believe inhabit this “ghost city.” Fengdu is an interesting prelude to a Yangtze cruise, fertile as it is with legends about the afterlife. In Chinese lore, the dead must pass three tests before they pass into heaven. If they fail, they are destined to spend eternity in the underworld. In Fengdu, this journey is brought to life: the city’s main attractions are the three bridges that represent the three tests.

Perhaps three—three bridges, three tests—is the magic number along the Yangtze. Surely, the Three Gorges through which we cruise cast a spell of their own. Of the trio of mountain-lined river passageways, the Qutang could be the most spectacular. Only five miles long, it zig-zags through a narrow canyon, dwarfed by mountains as tall as 4,000 feet. Near its entrance, you are greeted by the Hanging Monk Rock. Legend has it that a soldier who was trying to climb this hillside in the dark of night to recover the body of his revered general was frightened away by a monk who crowed like a rooster greeting the dawn. As revenge, the soldier hung the monk upside down, and he remains there still.

After winding through Qutang Gorge, the Yangtze flows through the Wu Mountains and into the 25-mile Wu Gorge, known as the Witches Gorge. Each of the dramatic Twelve Peaks that marks our progress symbolizes a fairy popular in local lore. Here, another rock formation at one of the summit’s peaks tells a story, this one of a penitent maiden represented by a huge rock that resembles a kneeling goddess. Long, deep canyons here leave this section of the river in shade much of the day.

Xiling is the final gorge on a downstream itinerary, the longest at 49 miles. The river quickens here through some narrow, magnificent stretches along the Three Rapids of Xiling. Passage along this section of the Yangtze was once treacherous, but some water control projects have calmed the waters, making for a smoother journey.

But one project along the Yangtze was not so smooth: the controversial Three Gorges Dam. Fully completed in 2012, it is the largest hydroelectric dam in the world, and its construction was highly contested. When the dam was complete, water levels rose upriver and submerged priceless artifacts of Chinese culture and history. The government stepped in to save some of the treasures, but not all. The larger impact was on the tiny villages that once lined the Yangtze’s banks. Millions of people were relocated to higher ground. Proponents of the dam point to the huge amount of energy generated by its turbines, increased shipping and more trade upriver thanks to deeper waters, and the prevention of historically deadly flooding downriver every spring.

No matter your position, the Yangtze waters still flow, and they lead Gate 1 travelers into a magical landscape.

To enter Bhutan is to enter a world unto itself. Many have compared it to the elusive Shangri-La of fable, and the country safeguards its treasured traditional culture. With its doors closed to outsiders until 1974, and the flow of visitors still carefully observed, this kingdom of the dragon tucked between Tibet and India has preserved its glorious textiles, beloved national pastimes like archery, and its Buddhist serenity. From lush low-lying plains to Himalayan peaks rising a stunning 23,000 feet, its diverse ecosystems boast an epic beauty that is maintained with deep pride and the force of law.

All of this leaves the traveler with the indelible impression that they have, indeed, stepped into Shangri-La. But Bhutan is far better than Shangri-La: It’s real.

Buddhism-The Heart of a People

For most of the nation’s history, Bhutan was closed off not only to travelers from beyond its borders, but to outside cultural influences as well. It wasn’t until 1999 that the government lifted its ban on television, though it still made clear that programming must be consistent with the most abiding Bhutanese values, the roots of which are largely Buddhist. Having been secluded from so much of the outer world, the people of Bhutan are nourished by their inner spiritual lives, most of them practicing Buddhism.

Across Bhutan, you can see ample evidence of nearly 1,500 years of that faith on display. One of the oldest temples in the country is the Temple of Kyichhu, which has beckoned worshippers since the 7th century. With its gleaming gold roof and elegantly carved wooden pillars, it’s a jewel-box of a temple, a suitable home for the heavily-ornamented Jowo Sakyamuni statue, one of the most valuable artifacts in all the land.

Material objects are secondary to matters of the soul at Chari Monastery, established by Bhutan’s founding father in 1620. Perched on an emerald hillside, the monastery is an epicenter of prayer for Buddhist monks, some of whom spend up to three years here in meditation. At Tachogang Lhakhang, the rewards of such mindful practice are made concrete: The 15th-century monastery and its iron bridge are the realization of a vision that came to a Tibetan yogi who had paused at the riverside site for meditation.

At Chimi Lhakhang, the focus is less on the Zen of its monks and more on the love life of the local worshippers who come to this temple for its fertility-enhancing properties. Chimi Lhakhang was founded by a monk known as the “the divine madman.” He filled the temple with phallic symbols and used sexual innuendo to deliver some of the tenets of Buddhism. Though his approach was highly unorthodox, he is considered a national hero.

Dzongs-Protecting a Kingdom

Bhutan’s fortress-like dzongs are every bit as impressive as its temples. These massive complexes were positioned for defense against invaders, but much more was hidden behind the high fortified walls. Guard stations shared space with dwellings, civic offices, courtyards, and temples. Like the fortified medieval villages of Europe, Bhutan’s dzongs were miniature cities within citadels.

One of the largest is Tashichho Dzong, its sprawling splendor visible from Big Buddha Hill. In one form or another, a dzong has been present in this spot since 1216 and despite being damaged by four fires and an earthquake, the central tower has endured. Since 1968, Tashichho Dzong has been the seat of government.

Punakha Dzong used to hold that title, but what it lost in terms of political power, it makes up for in beauty, with its gold, red,and black colors, and gleaming statues filling a Coronation Hall, where the Kings of Bhutan are still crowned to this day.

Ringpung Dzong, with its 14 shrines and chapels, is considered an architectural masterpiece in Bhutan, and visitors may recognize some of its features from the Bernardo Bertolucci film Little Buddha. Though Drukgyal Dzong has no cinematic pedigree, the pale stone fort built to commemorate a victory over Mongol invaders is nonetheless evocative, with an eerie silence surrounding the ruins of this once triumphant structure.

Nature-The Greatest Treasure

Fortresses may fall in time, but Bhutan does more than just about other nation on earth to make sure its natural treasures are never lost. Nearly a third of the land is preserved for national parks, wildlife sanctuaries, conservation areas, and nature reserves. About 60% of the land is forest that may never be touched, and where building is allowed, sustainable development is a state requirement.

The result is a nation that remains a paradise for nature lovers: crystalline lakes…verdant valleys…flower-studded plains…and, of course, the watchful gaze of the snowcapped Himalayas. With so many different ecosystems flourishing here, it’s no surprise that the flora and fauna is equally diverse. The 6,000 species of plants, from the iconic blue poppy to hundreds of orchid varieties, are joined by a veritable safari’s worth of wildlife, including elephants, tigers, monkeys, and Himalayan “blue” sheep. Overhead, nearly 700 avian species wing from treetop to treetop, soaring like the chanting of monks on mountain air.

Tiger’s Nest-The Symbol of a Nation

Nature, culture, and faith all come together at the monastic retreat of Taktsang, the Tiger’s Nest. Ancient legend says that the 8th-century Guru Rinpoche, considered the second Buddha, flew through the skies of the Paro Valley on the back of a magical tigress looking for a place to meditate. He landed on the small outcropping of a cliff 2,700 feet above the valley floor. Despite its seemingly impossible location, the site became the home to a temple in his honor in 1692.

For more than 250 years, Tiger’s Nest has endured the cycle of seasons and powerful winds with little change, but two fires in the second half of the 20th century destroyed its main building. At the dawn of this century, the government invested millions of dollars in restoring it, spending five years to painstakingly recreate its beauty.

When it was reopened in 2005 in the presence of the King, it was a great source of national pride. The care given to the cultural treasure was a perfect embodiment of the Bhutanese belief that the dragon kingdom will endure as long as it preserves and protects its heritage.

Experience the wonders of Bhutan for yourself, small-group style, during our Himalayan Kingdoms: Nepal & Bhutan trip.