Category: Asia & Pacific

Indonesia
Asia & PacificSmall Group Discoveries

Indonesia: Where Two Worlds Meet

Natural Wonders of Java and Bali Have a Mystical Side

If there’s one thing that stands supreme amidst all of Indonesia’s sumptuous beauty, it’s the volcano. Indonesia, after all, is its volcanoes. Lush rainforest, vast seas of sand, dense woodland, and the remarkable variety of wildlife … they were all borne from lava and ash. Indonesia’s islands – abundant, luxuriant, verdant, and so very respectful of their own beauty – are lucky and beautiful children.

Tanah Lot Indonesia

On Java and Bali – the two islands you’ll visit during Gate 1’s 15 Day Indonesia: Java & Bali guided tour – towering peaks form a spine near each island’s center. From these heights, green blankets of land flow to the sea, cradling tiny villages, vibrant cities, and oceanside havens along the way. It makes for a magnificent setting, and a rich lesson in how Javanese and Balinese people nurture their relationship with their Indian Ocean islands.

Calming the Spirits

To understand the Indonesians’ connection to their natural world, you need to know only one thing: many Balinese people (and many older tribes on Java) believe that objects in the natural world such as animals, plants, and mountains carry a spiritual essence. All things, therefore, possess their own power which can be used for good or for evil.

Lake Butar Indonesia

Nowhere is this spiritual notion more apparent than in the history of Indonesians’ relationships to the volcanoes. Sacrifices have long thought to appease the mountain gods that spew smoke from their crowns. Stories of human sacrifice are merely the stuff of legend, though devout locals do participate in pre-dawn hikes to craters so that they may sacrifice fruit, vegetables, rice, and livestock into the calderas.

Crops of the Gods

Volcanic soil makes for some of the most prolific farming. Certainly, Java and Bali have a huge bounty to show for their fortunate locale amidst this agricultural gold mine. Their economy in fact relies on this fertility; agriculture is the country’s second largest profit-maker after tourism. Throughout the countryside, farming terraces climb steep slopes and everywhere farmers work their land.

Indonesia Farming

But in many regions, it’s not the farmers who regulate irrigation to their terraces and paddy fields. It’s the priests. Crops here are fed by a water management system known as Subak, which is based on a Hindu philosophy of “Tri Hita Karana” that fosters a good relationship with God, with other people, and with the environment. Put simply, this system creates an intimate tie among farmers, communities, and their temples.

Though it might sound odd for a priest to regulate water distribution in a land with plenty of water, it’s helpful to remember that the infinite elements of nature – trees, fields, crops, even water itself – are spiritual beings. So who is better suited to negotiate the needs of the spirit world with the needs of the people? Subak remains a crucial part of Indonesia; because of it, the resulting cultural landscape on Bali has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Asia’s Amazon

For its natural beauty and rich wildlife, Indonesia is an unsung giant. It hails as the second most bio-diverse country on the planet, after Brazil. Dense forest covers about 60% of its land, much of it thriving with natural flora and fauna thanks to a combination of nutrient-rich earth and tropical climate. Its many islands – 17,508 of them, 11,500 of which are uninhabited by humans – further bolster a rich variety of species. As you might imagine, a healthy mix of Asian plants grow here, too, as Java and Bali were once connected to the mainland. We’re sure to spot some of them throughout our journey. However, more than a third of its 1,531 bird species and its 515 mammal species are endemic to these islands. Only Australia can claim a larger percentage than this.

Ubud Bali Indonesia

With 50,000 miles of coastline in this archipelago nation, natural diversity also takes to the waters. Varied ecosystems – beach, sand dune, mangrove, coral reef, and others – support more than 1,650 species of coral reef fish. This is one of the greatest varieties on the planet, and it earned Indonesia membership in the Coral Triangle, sometimes known as the “Amazon of the Seas.”

Paradise on earth. It’s a phrase often used to describe Java and Bali. But their magnificent beauty goes deeper than this. In Indonesia, the natural world is also the spirit world, and vice versa. And the real beauty lies in the people’s respect for them both, and in what passes between them. Our Discovery Tours small groups bring you close enough to experience it all firsthand.

You can learn more about our Gate 1’s 15 Day Indonesia: Java & Bali guided tour here. To browse Gate 1’s Southeast Asia itinerary, click here.

Asia & PacificSmall Group Discoveries

It’s All About the Rice

Indonesia is the third largest producer of rice in the world, growing up to 50 million tons per year in the last decade. The average Indonesian consumes 441 pounds annually. But if rice is the star of most of this country’s meals, its various side dishes play delicious supporting roles. And what a cast … with 6,000 populated islands, Indonesia’s cuisine is hugely diverse. What’s more, the archipelago’s Spice-Islands reputation keeps today’s meals flavorful.

Ayam Penyet means “flattened chicken,” and it could be the tastiest bird you’ll ever eat. Preparation is simple: after marinating the pounded chicken in spices, it is fried to crispy, golden perfection. It is often served with plain steamed rice, sambal (see below), and vegetables.

Bakso is often found in street markets, a hearty meatball soup with noodles, tofu, chili, crisply onion, and sweet soy sauce. The meatballs might be made from beef, chicken, fish, or a combination of the three.

Cap Cai takes its inspiration from Chinese cuisine. The vegetable stir fry might consist of cauliflower, cabbage, carrots, onion, chili peppers, and mushrooms – all fried up with a dash of soy sauce. Some versions might include chicken or shrimp. Simple steamed rice is often served on the side.

Nasi Goring is a simple and wholesome meal of steamed rice fried with chili, shrimp paste, onion, garlic, and soy sauce. The beauty of this dish is its versatility; most anything can enhance it, from meats to eggs to cucumbers. Variations are found by region, from pale and mild to rich and spicy.

Otak Otak combines minced fish, lemongrass, kadok leaves, ginger, lime leaves, turmeric, eggs, coconut milk, and seasoning in banana leaves. That succulent package is then steamed or grilled over an open fire.

Sambal is actually a condiment, but it is on virtually every Indonesian table. Many dishes simply aren’t complete without this saucy combination of chiles, shrimp paste, lime juice, sugar, and salt.

Soto varies in its preparation by region. It is typically a mild soup of herbs, coconut milk, and either chicken or beef. Compressed cubes of rice (nasi himpit) might be served with it. Some parts of the country have spicier versions.

Tempe, though often used as an ingredient in other dishes, might be served on its own as a protein-rich substitute for meat. Its nutty flavor is enhanced when marinated in spices, lime juice, and turmeric, then fried.

Enjoy the diverse cuisine of Indonesia on our Discovery Tours’ Indonesia: Java & Bali small group tour!

Asia & PacificSmall Group Discoveries

Connecting the Dots: a Trio of Javanese Temples

In the muted, ephemeral light of a Javanese full moon, they walk. They lay flowers and light candles among ancient stone temples. It is the noble life they contemplate and with every step they resolve to follow the revered Five Precepts, a set of Buddhist commandments against theft, infidelity, lying, intoxication, and doing harm to other living beings. Morality, simplicity, and humility guide them.

This is Indonesia’s Waisak celebration, considered Buddha’s Birthday even though it encompasses the birth, enlightenment, and death of Gautama Buddha. The world over, the holiday is celebrated by Buddhists during the full moon of May or June – in Myanmar, China, Tibet, Thailand, and beyond. In Indonesia, it is commemorated with this magical and ritualistic stroll among a trio of temples built during the ninth-century Sailendra dynasty: the Mendut, Pawon, and Borobudur.

There’s no secret about what makes this temple-to-temple walk so magical. Its setting, on Java’s elevated Kedu Plain, between two twin volcanoes and two rivers, casts a spell on visitors of any religious persuasion. But there’s something else at work here – something beyond the pure physical beauty – and it’s been a source of mystery among the devout and among scholars. These aren’t just any temples: they were positioned along a perfectly straight line. And no one knows why.

Even locals can only guess. One legend has it that a brick road – enclosed by a wall on either side – once connected these three holy sites. Whatever the true story, their similar architecture and ornamentation first confirm that all three temples were built around the same time. Second, they may have symbolized the sacred unity of Buddhism. They may have even played a ritualistic role under a full moon, similar to the one that draws pilgrims here still today.

All told, pilgrims walk about three kilometers (just under two miles). The first two temples on their route are fairly modest in size, but elaborate in adornment. At Mendut, the small building is surrounded by a terrace, created for pradakshina, the circumambulating ritual of walking clockwise around a divine site. Animal stories and Buddhist divinities are carved into the exterior stonework and three statues sit upon thrones within. The small temple of Pawon, the second on the journey, is considered a “jewel of Javanese temple architecture” for its simplicity, symmetry, and harmony. Carvings of the tree of life (or kalpataru, said to fulfill all desires) decorate the walls alongside divine Buddhist beings.

Compared to the single-chamber buildings of Mendut and Pawon, Borobudur is a vast spiritual palace whose name means “holy building on a hill.” Indeed, with its multiple tiers – the bottom six are square and the top three are circular – it is the largest Buddhist monument in the world, constructed from two million blocks of stone. From the air, this complex resembles a colossal mandala. Remarkably, more than 2,600 bas-relief panels and 500 Buddha statues adorn the site. Once pilgrims arrive at this breathtaking spot, they know their journey is just beginning. A path surrounds the temple and leads them through an elaborate network of stairs and corridors. As they ascend the temple, they pass through three stages of mental preparation: Kamadhatu (the world of desires), Rupadhatu (the world of forms), and, at the top, Arupadhatu (the world of formlessness). Along the way, the story of the Buddhist divinity Sudhana is told in 1,460 carved panels. It is a journey at once historic and uplifting.

You can explore Mendut, Pawon, and Borobudur for yourself during Discovery Tours’ Indonesia: Java & Bali adventure.

Asia & PacificGate 1 Connections

The Wonders of Old Siam

For the first-time traveler to Thailand, it’s easy to imagine that all the smiling faces are for show, a deliberate gesture that you would see from anyone in the hospitality industry across the globe.

But then you begin exploring on your own … through the green Lumphini Park of Bangkok or among the ancient temples of Chiang Mai or the white sand beaches of Phuket. Then it becomes clear to you: everyone smiles here. Everyone is welcoming in the most authentic and genuine sense. This comes as no surprise, considering that 94% of Thai people are Buddhists, a non-restrictive and all-embracing religion. Thailand, you see, is the travel jackpot – a perfect blend of exotic culture, captivating history, intense natural beauty, and sincere openness.

Bangkok: Modern & Ancient Splendor

Bangkok is Thailand’s bustling and electrifying capital. Thais call it Krung Threp, or City of Angels. The more western name by which we know it translates into “riverside village of wild olives.” No matter what you call it, it’s sure to mesmerize you with its floating markets teeming with longboats, its ornate architecture and tropical gardens, and its glittering temples. It’s also a culturally diverse city, where paper dragons adorn the windows of Chinatown and the fragrance of curry wafts through the streets of Little India.

The city’s largest and oldest temple is Wat Po, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. Within these hallowed halls, its namesake golden-hued deity is massive, stretching 150 feet long. The soles of its feet are intricately etched in mother-of-pearl. It is an extravagant show of spiritualism—and an echo of the nearby temple complex of the Grand Palace. Home to monarchs until 1925 and the fairytale setting of The King & I, today the Grand Palace serves a ceremonial function and is open for enraptured travelers to explore. Its Emerald Buddha in the Royal Temple is considerably more petite than the Reclining Buddha, standing only 26 inches, yet it is the most revered statue in the nation.

Explore Ancient and Modern History Just Outside Bangkok

Statues such as the Reclining Buddha and the Emerald Buddha serve as spiritual touchstones for the Thai people. There’s another destination cherished by locals as the spiritual birthplace of Bangkok: the ancient capital of Ayutthaya. The golden era of Thai history unfolded among what are now temple ruins and incredibly preserved streets. This was once a powerhouse of Southeast Asia. Its palaces, monasteries, and temples inspired French King Louis XIV to compare the burgeoning metropolis to European capitals. It fell to the Burmese in 1767, after which the capital was moved to the riverside site of present-day Bangkok.

Just outside Bangkok in Kanchanburi province, a dark chapter in Thailand’s history is memorialized at the Bridge over the River Kwai & War Museum. In 1942, here in the tranquil countryside, the Japanese forced POWs to construct a 255-mile railway across Thailand in the blazing heat. More than 7,000 conscripted workers died. The bridge was the frequent target of Allied bombing and gained notoriety as the subject of the 1957 Alec Guinness movie by English director David Lean.

Chiang Rai & Chiang Mai: Lush Oases and Rich Cultures

In central Thailand, a vast archaeological site tells ancient stories of Thailand’s founding. In fact, Sukhothai is to Thailand as Giza is to Egypt. Before Ayutthaya, this was Thailand’s first capital through the 13th and 14th centuries and its artistic and architectural remains are astounding. Part of what makes this city so fascinating are the philosophies under which its kings ruled. Unlike the ruthless Khmer and Burmese rulers of neighboring countries, Sukhothai’s leaders respected the wishes of the people. Cultural and religious freedom set the tone for this flourishing civilization. The UNESCO World Heritage Site enjoys a lush setting among leafy hills and peaceful lotus ponds.

Outside Sukhothai, vast rice fields, gently sloping hills, lush jungles, and authentic teak houses and villages point north. Here, you get a sense of Thailand’s love for its natural resources. About 25% of the country is covered by natural forest; these vast expanses of untouched wilderness harbor an untold variety of wildlife. By some accounts, more than 1,000 mammal species are here, including monkeys, elephants, tigers, civet cats, and even bears. About 900 bird species either live here or migrate through. Perhaps most remarkably, the wild orchid, Thailand’s national flower, grows in 1,000 varieties.

Established in 1262, Chiang Rai is one of the oldest cities in Thailand. This is the heart of Thailand’s northern Lanna Kingdom, the “Golden Triangle” historically shaped by its proximity to the borders of Burma (today’s Myanmar) and Laos. Gate 1 travelers have the chance to visit these countries, ascending a mountain in Myanmar for views of the stunning countryside and embarking a serene cruise to the small Laotian island of Don Sao. Thailand’s renowned hill tribes eke out a living in the hills around Chiang Rai, too. An optional tour ventures into the jungle to introduce you to the fascinating and welcoming Akha, Long Neck, and Salong tribes.

The capital of the Lanna Kingdom, Chiang Mai, hugs the banks of the Ping River among green hills. Elegant temples, cultural emporiums and long leisurely strolls await you in this graceful city surrounded by a canal. Chiang Mai is mostly known for its crafts culture, which you can dive into at the shops along Sankampang Street. Silk, lacquer, silver, wood, and bronze are all transformed into intricate artwork here and you’re sure to come across a demonstration or two by craftspeople who keep their traditions alive. Outside the city, another remarkable Thai tradition is kept alive: the deep relationship between elephants and their mahouts, or trainers. The Thai elephant is central to local culture and identity here, and a visit to an elephant camp promises to showcase the gentle giant’s prowess and talents on an optional tour.

Thailand’s Seaside Resorts

If the cultural heart of Thailand lies in the central and northern parts of the country, then a beach-going, laid-back spirit lounges around in the south. But it’s not all sun, sand, and surf. In Pattaya on the Gulf of Thailand’s East Coast, break up your beach time with forays into a lively city and with a visit to one of the largest Floating Markets in the world.  On the island of Phuket, a traditional way of life lingers among infinite blue horizons and breathtaking natural beauty, as you’ll see when you browse the local Thai village, admire the Sino-Portuguese architecture, and witness serene monks making their rounds for alms. Without question, it is the perfect island paradise for relaxation and doing nothing at all. But if you do want to explore, you can join our optional tours to the magnificent Phi Phi Islands, home to prime snorkeling spots, and Monkey Island, home to a curious group of primates. Or, you can explore the mangrove jungles and towering limestone peaks around Phang Nga Bay and Lawa Island.

The Pleasures of Thai Cuisine

Thailand’s light, fresh cuisine competes with grand temples and lush beauty as a top reason to visit Thailand. Thai cuisine is one of the most aromatic you’ll experience. Five basic flavors give depth to local cooking here: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and spicy. Coconut, curries, peanuts and peanut sauces, and light fish sauce are all standard ingredients, varying in spiciness by region. Ginger, garlic, and chilies add flavor. Dishes in the northeast region of Thailand, might carry the warmer spiciness of many Laotian dishes, whereas recipes in the south are more mild, typical of neighboring Malaysia. Many dishes are prepared in a wok as stir fries—with chicken, beef, or pork; crisp vegetables; and rice or noodles incorporated into the recipe or served on the side.

The real beauty of Thai food is its seeming simplicity. Everyday cooks with the right ingredients can quite easily prepare some of the nation’s most popular dishes. However, like Thailand itself, many distinct and unique elements often underlie the simplest dish, creating one harmonious whole.

Thais might start their day in much the same way they end it, simply because there are just a few dishes intended solely for breakfast. Rice porridge or soup, an omelet with chili sauce, or deep-fried bread topped with chocolate are among them. Lunch and dinner are often served family-style, with several dishes shared. Side dishes might include any variation of fried rice or noodles. In Chiang Mai, you’re likely to see khao soi on the menu, a curried noodle soup with coconut milk and wheat noodle garnish. Pad thai, perhaps the most ubiquitous dish in Thailand—rice noodles with fish sauce, tamarind, chopped peanuts, egg, and vegetables or meat—has been ranked #5 on a CNN list of the world’s 50 most delicious foods.

Explore Southeast Asia Beyond Thailand, at a Terrific Value

With Thailand’s central location in Southeast Asia, it’s hard to resist visiting more of this captivating region while you’re here. Gate 1 Travel makes doing so easy, as many of our Thailand itineraries include explorations of Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar. Imagine uncovering the secrets of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, the largest ancient temple complex in the world … cruising among the towering limestone islands of Vietnam’s Halong Bay, one of the world’s most breathtaking natural wonders … experiencing the unspoiled charms of Luang Prabang in Laos, a city frozen in time … or marveling at the more than 2,000 pagodas, stupas, and temples that dot the golden plains of Bagan, Myanmar.

With Gate 1 Travel, your possibilities in Southeast Asia really are endless. And our value is matchless. Feature for feature, you won’t find a program that beats our price and quality.

Come discover Thailand—and beyond!—for yourself.

Asia & PacificTravel Tips

Thailand Book & Film Recommendations

Many of our guests enjoy reading about their destination – either in advance of their trip or while traveling – as a way of adding context to their visit. Whether reading a traditional guide book, learning about the history and culture, or simply enjoying a fictional novel set in the destination, a good book can add greatly to your experience. Similarly, a good movie set in your destination helps set the mood before you travel. We asked our Tour Managers and staff to recommend books and films which past guests may have enjoyed. The following does not constitute an endorsement of any authors, books or films listed, it is merely a collection of guests’ recommendations.

THAILAND: Books
Presenting Thailand: A Journey through the Kingdom by John Hoskin
Thailand: A Short History by David K. Wyatt
A History of Thailand by Chris Baker
Thailand – Culture Smart!: The Essential Guide to Custums & Culture by Roger Jones
Thailand: The Lotus Kingdom by Alistair Shearer
Fascinating Thailand by John Hoskin

THAILAND: Films
Ong Bak (2003)
Citizen Dog (2004)
Fan Chan (2003)

Asia & PacificSmall Group Discoveries

From the Gobi to Khovsgol: Keeping in Steppe with Mongolia’s Remote Beauty

Most people envision unspoiled Mongolia as two ruggedly different environments: the barren Gobi Desert and vast steppes blanketed with grassland. But these two landscapes only paint a fraction of a remarkable canvas.

To start, the Gobi—one of the last great untraveled places on earth—is unlike any desert you’ve imagined. It is kept dry by the Himalayas, which prevent rain clouds from heading northeast. The Gobi is the third largest “hot” desert in the world, after the Sahara and the Arabian, and only three percent of it is actually covered by sand. The rest is a surprisingly diverse array of ecosystems: gravelly plains, exposed rock, soaring peaks, dizzying gorges, dense forest, and babbling springs. It all thrives with a miniscule amount of annual rainfall and supports a rich variety of wildlife.  Little wonder that 13 million acres of the desert have been declared the Great Gobi Protected Area, and comprise Asia’s largest UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Within this massive reserve, Gurvansaikhan National Park—whose name translates into “Three Beauties” for its three mountain ranges known as East, Middle, and West Beauty—hosts some remarkable desert delights. The range is completely surrounded by desert, yet a semi-permanent ice field clings to its slopes. Elsewhere, in Eagle Valley, the stunning bearded vulture, or lammergeyer, rides warm thermals where deep gorges have been carved into the desert floor. You might imagine this raptor has been around since the age of the dinosaurs. If so, then its ancestors would have witnessed the reign of Velociraptors and Tyrannosaurids here; dinosaur egg fossils and other prehistoric remains of these beasts have been uncovered in the shadow of the Flaming Cliffs, breathtaking monolithic rock formations named for their vivid red sandstone.

Perhaps the Gobi’s most mesmerizing natural wonder are its Singing Sands. You might think it magical that these towering sand dunes would whistle like desert spirits sending a message to the living. But this is a natural phenomenon, not a ghostly one. These sands can only sing because of a unique recipe found only here and a few other places on earth: Start with specifically-sized grains of sand … make sure they contain silica … and adjust the sand’s humidity to a very precise level. Add a gust of wind, and listen to the sands sing.

All told, the Gobi is a colossal, dynamic living organism that’s been known to affect climates outside its borders. Easterly winds during Mongolia’s stormy seasons can kick up Gobi dust and carry it to China, even lingering over major cities like Beijing.

Heading west from the Gobi, tiny villages of round tented huts called gers dot the green steppes. Wild horses drink from spring-fed, pristine lakes. Perhaps a nomadic family journeys across an open plain, their yak and reindeer and provisions in tow. And perhaps they are headed to Khovsgol in the far northwest, Mongolia’s green paradise of forests, mountains, and lakes.

Just over Khovsgol’s Sayan mountain range of 10,000-footers, Russia’s great Siberian wilderness—the taiga, or subarctic coniferous forest—stretches in all directions. Sacred rivers course down alpine slopes and feed some of the purest lakes in the world, Lake Khovsgol among them, known as the “dark blue pearl.” It is the largest fresh water lake in the country, and the centerpiece of a protected national park area larger than Yellowstone.

Life is simple here … both for the locals who have learned to welcome travelers without harming their cherished way of life … and for visitors who quickly learn to slow down to a peaceful pace among forests of Siberian larch trees and magenta fireweed. This is about as remote as the Gobi, perhaps even more so, the kind of place where you can hear yourself breathe amidst the whispers of a pine-scented breeze.

Who knew Mongolia was so magnificent? Discover it for yourself during our Mongolia & the Gobi Desert trip. Click here to learn more!

Asia & PacificSmall Group Discoveries

The Wrath of Khans

Like all nations, Mongolia has seen its share of violent days. After all, if you’ve got building an empire on your mind, politeness is likely to fall away. The Mongolian Empire, largely bookended by Genghis Khan and Kublai Khan, blossomed throughout the 13th century, reaching as far west as today’s Poland, south to Pakistan and South China, and east all the way to Pacific shores. It was the largest contiguous land empire in human history, comprising 16% of the earth’s land surface. Herewith, the niceties of war, Khan-style:

  • Genghis Khan did not allow looting of his enemies without his prior approval, preferring to split acquired wealth among his warriors and their families.
  • He codified all laws, including prohibitions against selling women, stealing, fighting among Mongols, and hunting during the breeding season.
  • Genghis Khan declared religious freedom, international trade, and literacy for all, thus forming many alliances.
  • Genghis Khan saw his son and heir Ogedei as courteous, generous, and charismatic. Ironically, this kept the Empire on the path originally laid by Genghis, and Ogedei Khan expanded it to its farthest points west and south.
  • By the time of the third Khan’s enthronement at Karakorum in 1246, the reach of the Empire’s power was apparent: many foreign ambassadors attended Guyuk Khan’s coronation, including Pope Innocent IV, the Grand Duke of Moscow, a Seljuk Sultan, and the Emperor of India.
  • Khan #4, Mongke Khan, built Buddhist monasteries, mosques, and Christian churches in the Mongol capital. One prized installation in Karakorum was a silver tree whimsically adorned with pipes that dispensed various drinks. A replica of its stands before a Chinese temple today.
  • After Mongke Khan’s death, his two brothers Ariqboke and Kublai fought over the throne, stirring up a civil war in the once-united empire. Kublai emerged victorious.
  • Kublai Khan, after conquering all of China, became the first non-Chinese Emperor of that country. He grew the economy there and opened more than 20,000 public schools.
  • As the Mongol Empire grew, it broke into disparate factions who held allegiances to different ancestral brothers. By the time Kublai Khan died, southern expansion had reached its limit and over the following decades, the empire crumbled.
Asia & PacificSmall Group Discoveries

Mongolia’s Cultural Touchstones

Mongolia’s national flag tells a story. In its left bar, the Soyombo stands proud, a symbol of Buddhism—the sun, moon, stars, and heavens represented in ornate geometric form. It seems simple enough, this national proclamation of united religion. But it stands for a victorious triumph after a long 20th-century struggle under Communism.

In 1924, Mongolia was home to 100,000 Buddhist monks. But as Communism took hold from neighboring Russia, 700 monasteries were closed or destroyed, Buddhist teachings were repressed and monks were killed. By 1990, 110 monks lived quietly in hidden monasteries. A year later, with the fall of Communism, that all changed. Buddhism once again rose as Mongolia’s dominant religion, and other religions such as shamanism also emerged from the shadows.

It’s a long, dark chapter, one that underscores the unwavering passion of a peaceful people. And it holds a lesson: Don’t let Genghis Khan, Kublai Kahn, and the warring ways of the Mongolian Empire fool you. Mongolians are peace-loving, big-hearted, and eager to share their culture with visitors.

Mongolians of today are not defined by borders, but by openness; it might be the wide spaces and vast steppes in which they live that lulls them into kindness. That’s why you’re likely to get invited into many a ger (the circular, tented structures they call home—again, no harsh straight lines here) for tea, mutton soup, or a cup of airag, fermented mare’s milk. Fried dumplings, called khuushuur, might also be on the menu. To be sure, Mongolian cuisine is simple, derived as it is from nomadic ways that require the most efficient use of livestock and humble harvests. And don’t be surprised if you’re invited to wash it all down with Mongolian grain vodka, a holdover from Russia’s occupation.

Seasonal festivals similarly take their cues from a rugged past. The Naadam, for instance, is perhaps Mongolia’s most famous national sport gathering. For three days each July, towns all over the country participate in Olympic-style games of strength and endurance.

Naadam is known locally as “Eriin Gurvan Naadam,” or the Three Games of Men: wrestling, horse racing, and archery. In these modern times, the Games’ title is no longer accurate as women now participate in the latter two. (The wrestling costume, an open-fronted jacket called a zodog, ensures that women do not try to enter that competition.) Naadam is a tradition that dates back 1,000 years, and the events are based on the traditional hunting culture of the Mongolian army. At the largest venue for the Games, in Ulaanbaatar, more than 600 horses stampede across the steppe for ten miles.

The Golden Eagle Festival—founded very recently, in 2000—demonstrates another symbol of military might: the event’s namesake bird. This powerful raptor has long been used to hunt for food and pelts, and each October the best falconers descend on a valley in the Altai Mountains to show off the speed, agility, and accuracy of their birds.

No doubt music plays a part in these celebrations, and most certainly at more intimate gatherings. Like so much of Mongolian culture, the country’s music has firm roots in nature and nomadism. The nation’s most famous instrument—the morin khur, a bowed stringed instrument with a boxy base and long neck—is said to produce a sound resembling a neighing horse or, even more poetically, a breeze blowing through the grasslands. Khoomei, or throat singing, is a haunting multi-tone melody produced deep in the throat. “Long song”—so named not because of a song’s length but because of each syllable’s length within the song—also plays a crucial part in the Mongolian songbook.

Experience Mongolia’s rich and welcoming culture during our Mongolia & the Gobi Desert trip. Click here to learn more!

Asia & PacificSmall Group Discoveries

Notes on an Itinerant People

Mongolia’s Nomads Cling to a Treasured Way of Life

In the annals of travel, one of the oft-quoted explorers, Marco Polo, is reported to have said on his death bed, “I did not tell half of what I saw. No one would have believed it.”
The 13th-century adventurer journeyed to the exotic ends of the world and returned home with stories of double-humped camels and long-haired cattle. Indeed, many of his readers believed his stories were outrageous and called him a liar. Surely, they said, such bizarre creatures could not roam the earth!

Of course, the four-legged wonders that Marco Polo witnessed in Mongolia were emblematic of a larger and far more exotic world than anyone back home in the civilized Venetian Republic could have dreamed. Imagine, for instance, a people who never stayed in one place … who lived off the land completely with no sense of permanent, centralized community … who lived in round huts made of animal pelts that could be disassembled quickly when it was time to move on to their next home. “No one would have believed it,” the traveler wrote. Indeed, Mongolia’s rugged culture and its people’s itinerant ways must be seen to be believed. And Discovery Tours invites you to do just that.

An Ancient Capital on the Move
The history of Mongolia’s capital, Ulaanbaatar, says a lot about the nomadic culture that still survives today. Typically, young countries establish capitals in order to centralize government functions and develop a national and cultural pride of place. Not so in Ulaanbaatar. This fledgling capital was founded in 1639 as a mobile monastery, a seat for the first Tibetan lama of Mongolia, Zanabazar. Simply put, this capital city was nomadic, moving from place to place as the need for supplies dictated.

It must have been quite a site to see a capital city on the move; thousands of gers—the round tent-like structures that served as homes—would have been broken down, packed away, and loaded into a massive caravan of wheeled carts pulled by horses, yaks, and reindeer. It was an epic seasonal exodus that led to temporary establishments along the Selenge, Orkhon, and Tuul rivers. To Western eyes, it seems like it would have been a hard life, and perhaps it was. But the lama preferred his capital to be mobile so that his monastery could better serve its people. Then there was the added benefit of being able to relocate quickly to Inner Mongolia during the Dzungar Wars in the late 17th century.

All told, Ulaanbaatar settled in 24 places. Its shortest stay was less than a year; its longest was 34 years. In 1778, as the U.S. was stepping into independence, the city settled in its current location where the Selbe and Tuul rivers meet.

So a nomadic lifestyle would seem to be coursing through Mongolians’ blood, if not coded into their DNA. Many still move with their livestock two-to-four times a year as their livelihood depends on the health of their horses, yaks, and reindeer. After all, greener pastures mean a healthier diet. It’s a life dictated by the cycle of seasons, and many might tell you that it comes with a freedom as wide as the endless steppes.

Ger: the Basis for Nomadic Life
Of course, in order to move about so often, one needs the Mongolian version of a mobile home. The round, tent-like ger is just that. You might know these simple structures as yurts, an equally accurate term that was used by Russians when they occupied Mongolia in the 20th century. So perfect is the structure of the ger for nomadic life that it hasn’t changed in 1,000 years—a circular lattice skeleton; a central wooden dome, kind of a large inverted dish set on pillars; a series of radial ribs connecting the dome and the lattice; all covered with animal pelts.

The ger, in fact, may be the closest tie that American culture—and other cultures around the world—have to Mongolia. They are not unfamiliar structures, thanks in part to William Coperwaite, a Harvard educator from Maine who was first inspired to build these round huts in the 1960s after reading a National Geographic article chronicling the Mongolian journey of Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas. But many of these so-called replicas, found at campgrounds or ski resorts around the world, are made with higher-grade materials and stand as permanent structures, so they are far from authentic or culturally accurate.

The Steed of the Steppes
Mongolia is two-and-a-half times the size of Texas. And just like in that southern state, its people relied on the horse for transportation from the country’s earliest days. Camels and reindeer may also have gotten people where they needed to go, but horses provided greater speed compared to these pack animals. So you can imagine that nomadic cultures evolved to become very horse-centric.

The timeless image of the Mongolian horseman is the leathery-skinned loner cantering astride his steed on a grassy steppe, his deel or robe dancing on a breeze. It is an intimate connection between herder and horse. Some riders carve their saddles from wood and adorn them with silver. And the horse’s mane is braided into rope. But horse and rider most thrillingly take center stage each year during the horse races of Naadam.

A Culture on the Edge
Few nomadic people remain in the world, so this Mongolian culture is precious. Many factors are contributing to their dwindling numbers. Mongolia’s economy, for one, is showing great promise. So the younger generation is being drawn to larger cities to pursue 21st-century careers. Climate change is also creating a shift in the environment as deserts reach out to strangle fertile grasslands, threatening grazing land, herds, and the nomadic way of life. Recent winters have been harsh, too, driving herders to opt for lives in mining towns and more urban comforts.

Still, the vast majority of Mongolia’s landscapes remains innocent and unspoiled and pure. And its nomads remain as much a part of the season’s cycles as the shifting winds.

Witness Mongolia’s nomadic culture during our Mongolia & the Gobi Desert trip. Click here for trip details!

Asia & PacificSmall Group Discoveries

6 Sublime Wonders of New Zealand

To say that New Zealand takes your breath away doesn’t quite say enough about how staggering its beauty is. Instead, you could say New Zealand stirs the soul. It makes your spirit soar. It fills you with a stupefying wonder for all that is divine and powerful. Well, you get our point. And you’re sure to agree that words simply cannot express the effect that this spectacular country has on everyone who visits.

It’s fair to say that, before director Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings trilogy—which was filmed amidst its scenic splendor—New Zealand wasn’t on the radar of many travelers. Now, we can’t get enough of it. So we’re happy to share with you six of our favorite places, the ones that are sure to take your breath away and even stir your soul. Here’s what they shared:

THE NORTH ISLAND: VOLCANIC SPLENDOR

Rotorua

A rocky plateau sits just above the city of Rotorua. An entirely different world bubbles and gurgles upon this mound:  the geothermal area of Whakarewarewa. Geysers erupt, hot springs steam and mud pools boil in this otherworldly landscape.

Whakarewarewa lies within the North Island’s Taupo Volcanic Zone, and it sports some 65 geyser vents and 500 hot-spring pools. Seven of the geysers are active, with Pohutu (Maori for “explosion”) erupting up to 100 feet tall about once an hour. The most fascinating thing about several of these active spouts is that they often erupt in concert—first the Prince of Wales Feathers Geyser, then Pohutu, followed by Waikorohihi. The reason for this symphony is that they all protrude from a common fissure regulated by a highly complex system of pressure and release.

Huka Falls

Rushing down the Waikato River in a torrent, the Huka Falls flow from Lake Taupo, the largest lake in New Zealand. The river, as it leaves the lake, is up to 300 feet from one bank to another. Then, its waters are funneled into a dramatic canyon that’s just 50 feet wide. The result is a surge of water—often 58,000 gallons per second—through a very tight space. The river first courses over smaller falls of about 25 feet, followed by a more dramatic 35-foot drop into a beautiful (and very loud!) tree-ringed basin.

Tongariro National Park

The oldest national park in New Zealand and the fourth one established in the world, Tongariro offers spectacular vistas of snow-capped peaks, dense forests, open plains, and pristine rivers. It’s important to New Zealanders because it is one of only 28 “mixed” UNESCO World Heritage Sites, protected by the United Nations organization for both their natural beauty and their cultural heritage. You won’t have to look far to understand why this unspoiled and majestic land is worth protecting. It is a medley of nature’s best, and its wide sweeping vistas made for a stunning setting for Peter Jackson’s movies.

The park was in fact declared sacred in 1887 by paramount Maori chief Te Heuheu Tukino IV. Certainly, he wanted to protect the wilderness for future generations. But he also made his declaration in order to protect the many Maori religious sites within the park. The native islanders consider three of its mountain summits—Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, and Ruapehu—as tapu, or sacred.

THE SOUTH ISLAND: DAZZLING ICE AND WATER

Franz Josef Glacier

Even the scenic road to Franz Josef Glacier is a wonder to behold. It traces the Clutha River Valley to the pretty town of Wanaka on the pristine waters of Lake Wanaka. From here, the mighty Clutha River has cut stunning glacial terraces into the landscape. Today, the Franz Josef Glacier is part of what’s left of the glacial system that carved this landscape. At 7.5 miles long, it is unique in that it has crawled toward the sea from the heights of the Southern Alps through the lush greenery of a rainforest.

The first Europeans laid eyes on this massive icefield in 1859, but it was a German explorer who named it after the Austrian emperor six years later. Of course, the Maori, New Zealand’s indigenous people, were intimately familiar with it and called it Ka Roimata o Hinehukatere, which means “the tears of Hinehukatere.” The name comes from a local legend in which Hinehukatere persuaded her lover, Wawe, to climb in these mountains with her. After an avalanche buried him alive, her countless tears flowed down the mountain and froze to form the glacier we see today.

Milford Sound

Rudyard Kipling called Milford Sound the eighth wonder of the world. So it comes as no surprise that it has often been ranked as the world’s top travel destination. The sound is a magnificent fjord flowing in from the Tasman Sea. Pristine waters glimmer at the foot of vertical, soaring mountains that rise up to 3,900 feet on either side. One of its peaks, called The Elephant, is shaped like a pachyderm’s head. Another, The Lion, resembles a crouching jungle cat.

Two permanent waterfalls cascade down sheer cliffs to plunge into the waters of the fjord: Lady Bowen Falls and Stirling Falls. After heavy rain, however, any number of waterfalls could suddenly appear from above and drape the forested cliffs in watery curtains. Lucky for us, it rains a lot in Milford Sound. With rain falling 182 day each year on average, it is one of the wettest places on Earth.

Lake Wakatipu

New Zealand’s longest lake (50 miles), and the world’s third largest in area, Lake Wakatipu is overlooked by the aptly named Remarkables mountain range. From the air, it is shaped like a sharp-curved “S.” At its greatest depth (an astounding 1,020 feet), its floor lies below sea level.

The setting of Lake Wakatipu is truly spectacular, and the people of Queenstown are fortunate to be right in its midst. Our Wonders of New Zealand spends three nights in this charming city, giving you ample time to take in the alpine beauty. A cruise aboard the TSS Earnslaw takes you along the lake’s shores to admire the vistas. Keep your eyes open for Mallards, black-billed gulls, and pied shags, a type of cormorant native to the region. If the lake looks familiar, that’s because it was used as a backdrop for several scenes in The Lord of the Rings trilogy.

Discover the magnificent beauty of New Zealand on a Gate 1 Travel escorted tour!