Category: Latin America

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This Can Only Be Peru

Breathtaking Ancient Cities, Colonial Wonders, Magnificent Natural Beauty

As peak experiences go, there are few that beat Machu Picchu. This spectacular ancient site straddling Andean slopes takes the breath away; not just for its sheer beauty but also for its mystery. How exactly did the mighty Inca Empire haul these colossal stones to this saddleback ridge? And what purpose did the city serve … a royal retreat, a spiritual sanctuary?

We may never know. But one thing is certain. Peru is overflowing with mysteries and wonder far beyond the heights of Machu Picchu. And when you journey to this magnificent country with Gate 1 Travel, our local Tour Managers bring them all to life for you, from fortresses of stone to historic cities rich in culture to a warm and welcoming people.

Cities Awash in Colonial and Incan History

If you think of Machu Picchu as the pinnacle of Peru, then consider Cuzco and Lima as the country’s historic and cultural foundations. Indeed, no visit to Peru is complete without exploring these two cities. Cuzco may have a decidedly colonial atmosphere—with its low-slung red-roofed houses, expansive Plaza de Armas and Gothic-Renaissance cathedral—but it began as the capital of the Inca Empire. If you need proof, look no further (literally) than the ground at your feet. When Spanish conquistadors took the city, they razed its buildings and replaced them with what we see today. But the original Inca foundations remain, making for a fascinating architectural blend.

Perhaps the city’s most distinct emblem of its Incan origins can be found at Koricancha, the Temple of the Sun. In pre-colonial days, the floors and walls of this Inca place of worship were awash in gold. Unfortunately, much of it was paid to the Spanish as ransom to save the life of Inca leader Atahualpa. Gate 1 shows you these important sites during a city tour.

Lima, on Peru’s Pacific coast, was founded by Francisco Pizarro as the capital of the Spanish Empire. Its European ambiance makes it a delight to explore. The architectural star of the city’s main square is the Basilica Cathedral. Pizarro himself laid the first stone of this splendid neoclassical-colonial church and is buried inside. The Archbishop’s Palace is adjacent; its ornate façade features a pair of dramatic enclosed balconies. Lima is also known for its food scene. Even American chef Todd English has called it Latin America’s culinary capital. The city offers up a rich gastronomy simmered in the technique and spices of all who have shaped the city: indigenous foods have been infused with Spanish flair, of course. Asian flavors were brought here with a wave of immigrants, too. And Creole spices were introduced by Caribbean workers. Peruvian cuisine is so “hot” that it’s gone global; even the Chilean sea bass at your local grocer is most likely from Peru.

To the south, the white-stone buildings of another colonial gem shimmer in the Andean sun: Arequipa. The city, nicknamed La Ciudad Blanca, or White City, was constructed from a white volcanic rock called sillar. Its bright buildings surely make for a magical visit. For a splash of color, the Santa Catalina Monastery boasts vivid facades and the local outdoor market brims with multi-hued produce and textiles.

Mysteries of Empires

Fascinating as Peru’s colonial cities are, nothing in the western hemisphere compares to the country’s pre-colonial sites. One of its most mysterious lies in a desert far from the heights of Machu Picchu. The colossal Nazca Lines, only visible in full from the air, were drawn in the sand between 400 and 600 AD. Figures of monkeys, fish, hummingbirds and lizards adorn the landscape, some of them 660 feet across. These massive figures on the high plateau of the Nazca Desert have puzzled scholars for generations. The mystery is not so much how they were made, but why. Many suggest a religious significance. Others believe they may have been fertility symbols or served some irrigation purpose. Or, they may have even been astronomical calendars.

Just outside Cuzco, the Sacred Valley, also known as Urubamba, holds more mystery. This fertile stretch of land, fed by the coursing waters of the Urubamba River, has hosted terraced farmland and ancient ruins for generations. Ollantaytambo is perhaps the best preserved fortress. Here, you get a truly authentic glimpse of an Inca town, thanks to its original layout, irrigation system, and houses. Nearby Chinchero holds a popular market that overflows with locals and travelers eager to find local goods and produce—such as Pima and Tanguis cotton (some of the finest in the world) or corncobs that are known to offer up the largest kernels in the world. The salt pans of Maras and the crop circles of Moray provide more insight into the agricultural tradition of this magnificent valley.

High above the valley, Machu Picchu straddles a saddleback mountain. The ancient site is accessible only by foot or by train; remarkably, the rail journey traverses as many ecological zones as you would experience on a trip from the North Pole to the equator. Upon arrival, there are 100 acres of meticulously built buildings, terraces, and stairways, all gloriously preserved. Each building was constructed with an inward inclination, a design intended to help cities withstand earthquakes. You might also see some of the 425 types of orchid that grow in and around Machu Picchu; Peru as a whole is home to 1,624 species!

Unrivaled Natural Splendor

Cultural, historic, and architectural wonders aside, Peru’s natural world is one of the most dramatic on the planet. Consider this: The mightiest river in the world flows through the northern reaches of the country, moving some 150,000 cubic meters per second through the largest forest in the world. The Amazon and its namesake river, in fact, cut such a huge swathe through the continent that they play host to the greatest variety of fauna and flora on earth, the latter of which often holds the key to curing disease. It’s a privilege to explore this magnificent place, and a thrill to experience it all from a forest lodge that we can only access by boat. Visits to riverside villages, sightings of pink dolphins, and thrilling walks on rainforest trails bring all the magnificence into sharp focus. What’s more, the birdlife here is unrivalled; all told, Peru is home to some 1,700 species in total, the most of any country, and many of them take wing in the Amazon.

To the south, Lake Titicaca serves as a natural border between Peru and Bolivia. In the shadow of the Andes—the world’s longest mountain range—this unique body of water is the highest navigable lake known to man at 12,500 feet. Like the Amazon has its tribal cultures, Titicaca has the Uru people. Some members of this ancient tribe still live on floating islands, sturdy platforms they’ve woven together from the tortora reeds that grow in the lake. Entire communities exist on these islands, which were originally constructed so that tribes could escape from invaders simply by floating away.

From the highest heights to the lowest depths, another body of water, the Colca River, has carved one of the world’s deepest canyons into the Peruvian plain. At 13,650 feet, the Colca Canyon is more than twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. But it’s not indigenous people that grab our attention here—though our spectacular drive here often passes shepherds tending to their sheep. It’s the Andean condor. These rare birds ride the thermal air that rises up from the canyon floor, and they are a breathtaking sight.

Explore Peru Your Way with the Gate 1 Travel Family

No one knows Peru like Gate 1 Travel, with expert Tour Managers hailing from the very country they’re introducing you to. Their insider knowledge and connections are invaluable in ensuring you get the most from your visit, whether they’re taking you to meet locals in their homes or sharing bargaining tips with you as you explore Peru’s rich and lively markets. What’s more, our 30 years of experience in the region lets us offer you more ways to discover the magical wonders of Peru.

Discovery Tours by Gate 1 gives you the small group advantage. These feature-packed adventures are more active, allowing you to spend more time getting up close to Peru’s natural wonders. And because there are so few of us, you can spend more time lingering at the country’s most spectacular sites like Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca, while connecting with the locals on a more personal level. It’s a whole new way to see Peru. We invite you into the more intimate world of small group travel on our Peruvian Legends tour.

If it’s luxury you crave in Peru, experience the Signature Collection by Gate1 Travel. You’ll experience all the wonders of Peru in classic Gate 1 style, with a touch of elegance at deluxe accommodations. Enjoy premier first-class, five-star hotels and lodges, from the JW Marriott to a beautifully restored monastery, each offering the perfect balance of comfort, service and ambiance, and savor the finest cuisine locally sourced and meticulously prepared. So go ahead … pamper yourself with our Deluxe Peru itinerary.

Join Gate 1 Travel in Peru!

If you thought Machu Picchu was the only reason to visit Peru, think again. From rich cultural centers to remarkable Inca sites to breathtaking natural spectacles, there are endless wonders to explore. And many ways to explore them! Best of all, the family of Gate 1 Travel companies introduces you to this rewarding region in the most affordable way.

Learn more about our value-packed Peru itineraries here. Then call us to reserve!

Latin AmericaSmall Group Discoveries

Our Tuxedoed Feathered Friend

It is a rare privilege to see the Magellan penguin, as you will on Tuckers Islets during the cruise portion of your South American Glaciers, Forests & Lakes itinerary with Discovery Tours. These adorable flightless birds are classified as “Near Threatened” by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

It was Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan who first spotted these odd creatures waddling among the Chilean fjords in 1520. They are perhaps the most recognizable penguin, with markings that closely resemble the tuxedo-clad caricature we’ve all seen in animations: black backs, white bellies, two black stripes below the neck, and a black cowl. Its wings were not designed for flying, but for swimming, behaving more like fins.

The penguins you’ll see from the decks of the Stella Australis may well have just come up for air from the watery depths. They feed on squid, krill and other sea creatures, for which they can dive up to 150 feet. But these feathered hunters follow the dictum that there’s safety in numbers, traveling in large flocks – known as colonies, parcels, or rookeries – when they go foraging.

To be sure, such partnerships are critical to a successful hunt. But they are also important to keeping the rookery thriving. Male and female penguins share the incubation of their eggs, trading off in 10-15 day shifts. After hatching, both parents raise the chicks for about a month, after which the little ones learn to fend for themselves. So it’s not surprising that Magellan penguins are monogamous, mating with the same partner year after year. During mating season, the female finds her mate by listening for his distinct call among a sea of penguins.

Several factors explain why the Magellan penguin is threatened. Their natural predators – sea lions, giant petrels, leopard seals – contribute to their natural decline, of course. But humans are far more menacing. Local oil spills in the birds’ hunting grounds kill tens of thousands each year. Climate change is also shrinking the population: extreme weather events like intense storms, drought and wildfires, disrupt their ability to reproduce. And an increase in torrential rains during the “off season” causes hypothermia in chicks that have not yet grown feathers.

Efforts are underway to protect the beloved birds. One local organization is working to create a marine protected area near the largest rookeries. Creating a preservation zone will ensure that breeding colonies will be successful, setting the stage for the Magellan penguin to continue waddling its way into our hearts.

Latin AmericaNews

Argentina drops visa fee for Americans

Argentina announced on Thursday that Americans traveling to the country in the next 90 days will not have to pay the $160 “reciprocity” visa fee that has been in place for the last few years.

For travelers, this means South American vacations may become cheaper than ever. Earlier this month, Brazil announced a visa waiver program in preparation for the Rio Olympics. Tourists entering the country between June and mid-September can visit for up to 90 days without a visa.

Travelers will benefit the most in June, when both visa waivers are in effect, for a savings of $320 per person on trips to both countries, like Gate 1 Travel’s 10-day Brazil & Argentina tour.

According to an official statement on the embassy’s website, Argentina’s fee was dropped for stays of less than three months “in order to strengthen the relationship between Argentina and the United States of America.”

The embassy of Argentina also said it’s possible that the fee will be eliminated altogether after the initial 90-day period.

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Buenos Aires on the Rise!

The cultural capital of Argentina is one of the most beautiful cities on earth. Spread out along the banks of the Rio de Plata, Buenos Aires is a vibrant patchwork of inviting barrios, green parks, and welcoming porteños. If you’re like us, the more you explore it, the more you’ll love it. Case in point:

What’s in a Name? Theories abound about the origin of the city’s name. One tale tells of a statue of the Virgin Mary that was pulled from the sea after sailors believed that it helped calm a storm. The statue was placed in a local abbey and sailors often stopped to pray for Fair Winds (“Buen Ayre”) before they embarked on their journeys. Another legend has it that one explorer proclaimed “How fair are the winds of this land!” as he arrived for the first time. Regardless, English-speaking locals tend to go with the shorthand “B.A.” and travelers refer to it as the “Paris of America” for its European air and wide boulevards.

All the City’s a Stage. Of all the cities in the world, Buenos Aires boasts the highest concentration of theaters. The Teatro Colon is the centerpiece, rated a top international opera house. It is acoustically among the Top 5 theaters alongside those in Vienna, Berlin, Amsterdam, and Boston. The city also hosts several symphony orchestras and choral societies and even has a museum devoted to theater and popular music.

Hometown of a Pope. In 2013, Buenos Aires made international headlines with the election of Pope Francis, the city’s former archbishop. Before entering the seminary, Francis—then Jorge Mario Bergoglio—held jobs that were a far cry from Catholicism: He was a chemical technician and a nightclub bouncer. Known for his humility and outreach to the poor, he is the first non-European Pope in more than 1,270 years.

Birthplace of a Dance. The tango originated in the working class port neighborhoods of Buenos Aires in the mid-19th century. Often called the music of Argentinean immigrants, it is thought to be a fusion of ancient African rhythms and European music, instruments, and technique. In 1912, dancers and musicians from Argentina were traveling to Europe to showcase the dance. It wasn’t until it caught on in Paris that it grew into an international sensation.

People of the Port. The locals of Buenos Aires are known as porteños. It’s a term that came into use in the late 1800s as European immigrants poured into the city. Many settled along the shores of the mouth of the Rio de la Plata, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean just past the city. Just across the river, the people of Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital, are also known by the name.

Endless Neighborhood Charms. Consider Buenos Aires a collection of small barrios, and you have a treasure trove of mini-cities to explore! La Boca rests along the old port; the 19th-century ambiance here is marked by wrought-iron streetlamps and pastel-hued rowhouses of blues, greens, reds, and yellows. The decorative arts along some of the quaint caminitos (or little streets) have earned them status as “street museums.” San Telmo is one of the oldest barrios. Cobbled streets lead to well-preserved colonial buildings, tango parlors, antique shops, and cafes. The tony district of Retiro is known for its tree-lined avenues, Art Nouveau eateries, Art Deco office buildings, and posh shops. And the affluent Recoleta district is marked by outdoor sculpture, museums, and the Recoleta Cemetery where Eva Perón is buried.

So Many Reasons to Visit. More and more travelers are discovering the sophistication and culture of Buenos Aires. The city is European to a fault. Its architecture echoes that found in Paris, Madrid, and Barcelona. It is a bastion of culture, brimming with museums, theaters, churches, and book stores. And vast green spaces dot the cityscape, from an internationally renowned zoo and botanical garden to manicured parks and plazas. Little wonder that it holds a highly ranked spot on Travel + Leisure magazine’s list of the world’s most desirable cities to visit.

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Into Patagonia!

There’s more to its sheer magnificence than meets the eye

For those who think that the world has run out of wild, unspoiled places, there’s Patagonia. Here, massive walls of granite huddle around emerald-green valleys. Crystalline waterfalls cascade into babbling brooks and rivers. Glaciers crawl into turquoise lakes, sculpting landscapes in their path.

It’s easy to forget that a rich history has unfolded in places of such beauty, that such a stunning backdrop has been a breathtaking stage to discovery and drama. In the spirit of insight that only a Discovery Tours small group can provide, we’re delighted to share some of it with you here.

There Be Giants

Ferdinand Magellan first brought this splendid part of the world to Europe’s attention when he landed on its shores in 1520. No doubt the magnificent beauty of the land was breathtaking to him and his crew. But you might imagine that its towering rock massifs and labyrinthine waterways were a bit intimidating.

It’s believed that one of Magellan’s first human encounters was with the Tehuelches. Members of this indigenous tribe were much taller than the Europeans of Magellan’s day, and they wore oversized leather moccasins that left larger-than-life footprints on beaches and in marshes. Legend tells us that when the Spanish explorers first saw these footprints, they thought they had landed in a land of giants. They noted in their journals that they had discovered the land of patagón, or “big foot.” The name stuck, and even maps of the New World drawn up after those first voyages depicted this largely uncharted area as regio gigantum, or “region of the giants.”

Later expeditions proved that the indigenous people of this newfound land were not literal giants, though at 6-foot-6, they did tower over Europeans. Still, everything here is gargantuan and dwarfs any human, no matter their shoe size. Vast plains stretch to forever. Monolithic rock faces reach to the heavens. Glaciers advance and recede over landscapes like icy sloths. And serpentine waterways wind their way through it all, coursing past fertile shores and feeding forests of exotic lenga and coihue trees and ferns. It must have seemed a lost world to those first explorers, far removed from anything they had ever witnessed. And so it is for today’s travelers, too.

Darwin Explores and Europe Expands

Though known mostly for his Galapagos Islands exploration and subsequent theories of evolution, Charles Darwin spent his early days collecting and cataloguing rocks and local species in Patagonia. His colleague Robert FitzRoy—a scientist and vice admiral of the Royal Navy—had invited him in 1831 to accompany a voyage on the HMS Beagle to chart South America’s coast. During their time in Patagonia, the young Darwin not only gathered substantial insect and marine samples; he also became fascinated by fossils and explored inland with local gauchos to pursue his curiosities further.

While Darwin was busily collecting samples, Mapuche nomads (a collection of indigenous tribes) were migrating into Patagonia from the north. They settled throughout the region to raise cattle or—with Europeans gaining more control and more land—to steal cattle from settlers. As the decades unfolded, conflicts erupted, with concerns from Argentina that the Mapuche would ally themselves with Chile, which seemed more sympathetic to tribal causes. At one point, Argentina even dug a huge trench and erected watchtowers—a barricade known as the Zanja de Alsina—to deflect cattle raids on Buenos Aires.

By 1870, Chile had established its authority in the western half of Patagonia by founding the city of Punta Arenas. As for Argentina, tensions with the Mapuche rose to the point where they marched into the eastern regions and called them their own, a conflict known as the Conquest of the Desert. It wasn’t until the beginning of the 20th century that a firm Patagonian border was agreed to between Chile and Argentina; by then, the British had formed some Welsh settlements in search of gold. The Crown stepped in to mediate any remaining dispute.

Priceless Natural Treasures Preserved

The 20th century ushered in the modern development of Patagonia—though, truth be told, it remains one of the least developed parts of the world, thanks to both local and international preservation efforts. The Argentinean outpost town of El Calafate, once a place for wool traders to simply hang their hats for a few days, was officially founded in 1927 to bring attention to settlement opportunities in the region. To be sure, it must have been very tempting to live in such a pristine place, with Lago Argentino, the country’s largest freshwater lake, right outside your door.

Little did the locals know that just ten years later, in 1937, the Perito Moreno Glacier would attract international interest among the pre-war leisure set. As the crowds grew in number, it became clear that this unspoiled region was at risk, and so the Perito Moreno National Park was established. Its massive glacier spills into Lago Argentino and is a remarkable sight to behold: a glistening three miles wide and up to 240 feet tall, almost as high as a football field is long. It is the largest ice cap outside Antarctica and Greenland and is actually growing year to year.

Just across the border in Chile, the rock-wall massifs of Torres del Paine National Park reach to the sky like so many fingers. The world was introduced to these spectacularly jagged mountains by British travel writer Lady Florence Dixie, who in 1880 described three particular granite towers as “Cleopatra’s Needles.” She and her party could well have been the first foreign tourists to visit. You can be sure that many more followed, including curious scientists, geologists, and adventurers. Since 1978, the park’s 700 square miles have been protected as a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve.

Cleopatra’s Needles and the park’s countless other granite pillars form massive rings around the great Patagonian Steppe. Many have compared the visual effect of these natural walls to that of a mighty cathedral. One thing is certain: their transporting beauty is made more transcendent by the park’s azure lakes, emerald forests, thundering waterfalls, and ice-blue glaciers.

A History as Grand as Its Setting

History, indeed, does whisper within this spectacular setting. We invite you to peel back its layers in a Discovery Tours small group.

Learn more about our South American Glaciers, Forests & Lakes trip here!

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A Cruise to the Ends of the Earth

The southern tip of South America—part Chile, part Argentina—is a wilderness untamed. A tapestry of lush archipelagos…soaring mountainous massifs reaching to the heavens…hulking glaciers spilling into the sea…a lacework of channels, rivers, inlets, and streams. Much of it remains as pristine as when Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan came upon it in 1520. Our small-group Discovery Tour, South American Glaciers, Forests & Lakes, explores its spellbinding beauty just as he did—by ship—on a four-night cruise.

Of course, you’ll enjoy a few more comforts than Magellan did. We’ve arranged your passage on a small expedition ship, the M/V Stella Australis. This technically sophisticated vessel was designed specifically to explore these waters, equipped with sturdy Zodiac craft that can take us ashore to experience the wilderness up close. What’s more, its crew is intimately familiar with local conditions and currents, knowing the most magnificent spots to drop anchor. On board, a private cabin provides homey comfort with large picture windows, so you won’t miss a thing. The restaurant and three lounges are perfect gathering places to compare your discoveries with fellow travelers and to sit in on a lecture by one of the onboard naturalists.

After our 8-day exploration by land, we head to Punta Arenas, embarkation point for the cruise of a lifetime into the breathtaking Strait of Magellan and the vast unspoiled archipelago of Tierra del Fuego.

Viewed on a map, the Strait is a wide, V-shaped spine connecting the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Countless other waterways stretch and splinter off of it to form narrow fjords, channels, and bays. One of its most breathtaking spots is the spectacular Almirantazgo Sound, an astonishing deep-cut fjord that leads to the pristine Ainsworth Bay.

As you might imagine, the waterways of Patagonia are fed from many sources. The two most significant are the tides of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Countless tendrils of rivers and streams also feed the channels and bays as they cascade down mountainous slopes and through sub-polar forests. But in Ainsworth Bay, there’s ample evidence of a glacial source. The Marinelli Glacier, part of Alberto de Agostini National Park, spills down from the Darwin Mountain Range, its ice melt feeding the bay. It’s a majestic and pristine sight akin to glimpsing the Ice Age, made all the more wondrous and primitive by the colony of elephant seals that sometimes whiles away the days here.

Elephant seals aren’t the only residents in the neighborhood. Back on the Tuckers Islets, Magellan Penguins waddle and mingle and dive into the chilly waters for lunch. This species is only found in the southern hemisphere, as our onboard naturalists are sure to tell us. Our Zodiac craft brings us closer to their perch so we can have a look and say hello.

Our expedition ship also takes us into the legendary Beagle Channel. Only small ships like ours are allowed in this narrow strait named for the HMS Beagle, which surveyed these waters in the 1800s under the supervision of Charles Darwin. In his notebook, Darwin wrote of the “many glaciers beryl blue.” He may well have been referring to Pia Glacier, a massive tongue of ice weaving through its eponymous fjord. Or perhaps he had the entirety of Glacier Alley in mind, a spectacular stretch lined with towering walls of ice.

At Wulaia Bay, which tucks into Isla Navarino, some fascinating stonework remains from the Yamana people. These aborigines called this area home for millennia. It’s fascinating to explore their archaeological site and be reminded that humans once eked out a life in this deep and remote wilderness. And speaking of remote, there is perhaps no more far-flung place than Cape Horn National Park, the “end of the earth.” Its fantastic setting—1,394 feet high on a rocky promontory overlooking endless ocean that stretches all the way to Antarctica–takes the breath away.

Sailing through the Chilean fjords and Tierra del Fuego affords sweeping vistas of some of the world’s most spellbinding natural treasures. Of course, broad-stroke views—like an epic canvas—only reveal so much. A closer, more examined look can inspire just as much wonder, which is why we’re so excited that the crew of our ship accompanies travelers on several walking excursions into this incredible wilderness. It’s an enchanting way to experience Patagonia, putting foot to earth and following pastoral pathways. Everywhere, the shores around us are blanketed by Magellan Forests, the southernmost forests in the world. These sub-polar forests are young, a mere 10,000 years; their clusters of lengas, canelos, ferns, and other endemic flora has been growing since glaciers began their retreat.

An enriching and educational cruise into the wild, stunning vistas of soaring mountains and “blue beryl” glaciers, unforgettable wildlife, and invigorating walks to a Patagonian wonderland. You can see why we’re so thrilled to offer this incredible itinerary with this fantastic cruise at its centerpiece!

Latin AmericaNews

High on Peru

–By Nancy Luse/Images by Kelly Johnson
This article was originally published by Frederick Magazine.

When I first began to travel, I received some advice that has always stayed with me—don’t go as a tourist; tourists complain and expect things to be like back home. Instead, go as a traveler, embracing whatever may come, celebrating new places and people.

Even as this philosophy was reinforced during a recent trip to Peru, another one—that guided tours with their bossy by-the-clock schedules should be avoided at all costs—was replaced with the comfort of not having to sweat the details, while at the same time proving that adventure is still possible even with group head counts.

Peru was admittedly not on my list of places I wanted to see. But my friend and frequent travel buddy Becky Chaney had a photo of Machu Picchu on the wall above her computer as inspiration for the past couple of years. A year ago she found a bargain package we couldn’t pass up, so we joined with our other friend, Kelly Johnson, to start saving our dimes. This brings up yet another tenant to my travel outlook: If an opportunity pops up to go anywhere, even if it’s not necessarily your dream, take it.

photo-kelly-hahn1We booked with Gate 1 Travel, based in Fort Washington, Pa. They’ve been around more than 30 years with a mission to provide unique travel experiences without breaking the bank. The itinerary they sent out months in advance gave me the feeling we would have a well-planned taste of Peru. When they sent a later email saying we would have an opportunity to visit a rural school and suggested we pack along classroom donations, I sensed this was a company with heart as well.

Gate 1 also gave us Leo and Ruben, capable, fun-loving tour guides who ministered to those with altitude sickness, steered us to try a taste of “Crispy George” (more about that later) and spoke so often and sincerely of a love for their country it brought tears to my eyes, even without the influence of a few pisco sours, South America’s signature cocktail.

We began our 10 days in the capital, Lima. Situated along the coast, the weather can be counted on to be overcast, but the lack of sunshine didn’t detract from the grand 17th century architecture and plazas, or beautifully landscaped parks, including the “cat park” in a corner of an upscale district. Reportedly a few cats were introduced in the 1990s to combat a rat infestation and the feline population exploded and now rubs against tourists’ ankles. Volunteers care for the cats, feeding and getting them neutered, although some locals want them gone, complaining about the park’s sometimes litter box smell.

Lima is a city that caters to pedestrians and bicyclists; on Sundays 52 blocks are closed to cars. Leo nonetheless warned us to be alert in our travels, and joked:  “Every driver has his own rules. Those traffic signals are just suggestions.”

The city gave us a first taste of the friendliness of the Peruvian people. At a shopping plaza overlooking the Pacific Ocean, I asked a security officer for directions to the restrooms and he immediately began asking about my home and telling me about Lima as he escorted me to my destination. Waiters and shopkeepers also did their part, including one shopkeeper who dragged out a stack of clothing for us to try on and posed us for photos. Even though we didn’t buy anything, she still hugged us, kissed our cheeks and wished us a good trip. In a plaza, a group of school kids had signs declaring it “free hugs day” and liberally followed through.

Coca Leaf Remedy

From Lima we flew to Cuzco, the ancient capital of the Inca Empire, a city 11,200 feet above sea level with the promise of altitude sickness. The best way to combat the dizziness and headaches is to drink plenty of water and coca tea. Hotel lobbies stocked tanks of oxygen for those needing an extra jolt. Days later when we climbed Machu Picchu, even higher, we stuffed our cheeks with coca leaves just to be on the safe side.

Exploring Cusco would come later in the trip. Instead, we boarded a bus to the Sacred Valley, first stopping in Chinchero to shop for alpaca sweaters in an open air market, watch a weaving demonstration and meet “Crispy George.”

Part of seeing the world as a traveler is fighting the urge to recoil from unfamiliar foods. In Brazil it was capybara, the world’s largest rodent. This trip it was guinea pig, or cuy, which Americans see as a pet and many Peruvians consider a delicacy served on birthdays. “George” came from the oven in one piece with a pepper stuffed in his mouth. The three of us sampled what was on our plates. Not bad, but we didn’t order it again. Maybe it was the hutch of the little critters in the courtyard, reminiscent of a lobster tank in a seafood restaurant.

photo-kelly-hahn2Although the ancient Incas generally are known for their magnificent stone structures built at perilous heights with structures that coincided exactly with the seasonal path of the sun, they were also no slouches when it came to agriculture. Clearly this was apparent in the Sacred Valley, a fertile swath of land that includes the Urubamba River. Here you will see farmers plowing with tractors they collectively own, as well as seeing oxen hitched to a plow. Shepherds were on the hills with their flocks and we stopped to meet a mother and son who were moving sheep along the road.

“They are my cousins,” Leo said, a designation he gave to almost everyone we encountered, whether it was the man who exchanged our dollars for soles (Peru’s currency), the woman from a bakery who gave us a large loaf of bread when our bus passed through her town or the people running the nightclub where we went one night for karaoke—the songs were mostly from the ‘70s and ‘80s, but it was good to sing along with The Doors’ Morrison Hotel.

The Sacred Valley is home to Maras with its large circular layout of depressions that historians say shows how the Incas mastered growing crops at higher altitudes by experimenting with the “mini climates” of each terrace. In the nearby town of Moray are salt evaporation ponds from ancient times that are still in use today.

A visit to the ruins in Ollantaytambo gave us a foretaste of Machu Picchu. We traipsed among the Inca fortress with its perfectly chiseled blocks of stone, wide terraces and temple of the sun, as Leo and Ruben pointed out the mountain terrain that looked like the giant face of a man, as well as other stone outcroppings that the ancient people revered.

That night we had dinner with a Peruvian family. “Welcome to my simple home,” the father said in Spanish, opening his arms to take in the single room. Sleeping quarters were on the second floor and an open kitchen was in the back where his wife cooked on a wood-fired hearth. A roast chicken, the ever-present corn and potatoes (Peru produces 4,000 varieties), along with countless other dishes, made us feel special. Leo sweetened the mood by saying that the money we paid for the meal was enough to pay tuition for the daughter who walked a half hour every day to attend school.

It was an early wakeup call the next day for Machu Picchu, “the lost city of the Incas,” designated as one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. There’s little doubt for its inclusion. First by train through rugged mountains and then by bus on a road with hairpin turns and no guard rails, we arrived slightly rattled to the site.

We mingled with people from around the world on that mountain—nuns in their habits, a touring choir from Spain, an old man in flip-flops and our crew, all of us happily making it to the top. This was a soak-it-all-in moment spent simply staring at the breath-taking scenery and the way sunlight slanted against the peaks. I imagined the original inhabitants. I ceased chattering and opened my mind. This was for remembering when I’m in the nursing home.

Some who traveled to Peru that week missed experiencing Machu Picchu when unions tied to tourism went on a two-day strike to protest the government’s plan to privatize the ruins along with other notable sites. No train, no buses, along with shuttered shops and restaurants. Visitors to Cusco walked an hour and a half from the airport, dragging luggage behind them. Street demonstrations with drums, chanting, firecrackers and police with riot shields gave us that unexpected experience and a story to tell back home.

photo-kelly-hahn3The road to Lake Titicaca, a place where people live on floating islands built from reeds, was filled with tires, huge rocks and other debris by the demonstrators. We were helped on one bad stretch of road by some of Leo’s “cousins” who cleared the way in exchange for a case of beer. Our guides always watched out for us.

So it was a little sad as our group sat at dinner in Lima on our final night, the only time during the trip that it rained, even though the forecasts we scoured weeks before had predicted showers every day.

We toasted with pisco sours, exchanged email addresses and crammed together for a group photo. “And when you come back to my country,” Leo said, “your cousin will be waiting for you with open arms.”

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Ecuador! Where Natural, Culture, and the Future All Come Together

There is an Ecuadorian saying that translates to “Look for a good tree, and you’ll have good shade,”the point being that the best things in life don’t come to you-you must seek them out. Travelers who seek out Ecuador discover an abundance of good things: warm and welcoming people, ancient cultures still thriving, some of earth’s most dramatic landscapes, and unparalleled wildlife.

The locals call the equator, which bisects their nation, “the middle of the world.”When you witness for yourself how many delights intersect in this one small country, you’re sure to understand why.

Revel in Ecuador’s Natural Splendor

Perhaps the most biodiverse country in the world per square mile-harboring over 50 ecosystems-Ecuador is home to not only to the Galapagos isles that so enchanted Darwin, but to primeval Amazon rainforests. So varied are the landscapes here, you can stride across epic lunar-like volcanic slopes, immerse yourself in bubbling thermal pools, and stroll white coral beaches among sleeping sea lions all in one journey.

Even the most seasoned travelers sometimes forget how much the Amazon rainforest dominates eastern Ecuador. More than 300 types of mammals and 350 reptile species share this lush ecosystem. When you arrive at our lodge in typical Amazon fashion – by canoe – you’ll be accompanied by the music of the jungle: chirps and screeches and whistles from some of the 1,600 bird species. This is nature’s playground, so we believe you ought to play: our lodge provides exciting nature tours on walking trails, over suspended bridges, among the treetops in a zip-line basket, and along Napo River waters in a traditional balsa log raft.

Of course, Ecuador’s beauty doesn’t end in the rainforest, as you surely will notice. Even our drives showcase the country’s natural splendor. BÃnos, the Gateway to the Amazon, is a landscape in motion, home to 60 small waterfalls and bubbling natural springs, making it a beloved destination for Ecuadorians. But the waterfalls there are just a lovely warm-up to the headliner: the Devil’s Cauldron Falls outside of Bãnos. This massive torrent plunges noisily through a rocky gorge within the cloud forest, a spectacle you can hear even before you see it.

The cascade is only the beginning of Tungurahua’s offerings. The nearby Quechua village of Ahuano offers a serene riverside respite in contrast to the falls. But lovers of a good thrill-and a stunning view-also seek out the chance to enjoy a ride on the “Devil’s Nose”rail car that zig-zags along a thrilling switchback rail system that descends 1,600 feet. It follows a route once known as Condor’s Aerie, but dubbed the Devil’s Nose after 2,000 workers died during construction of this jaw-dropping engineering feat.

The epic handiwork of Mother Nature can be found in Cotopaxi National Park. The world’s highest active volcano soars skyward in the park, flanked by two more in the garland of eight that adorn southern Ecuador, earning this region the nickname “Avenue of the Volcanos.”These once-explosive landscapes now lay silent, home to wild horses, llama, and deer, all watched from above by sharp-eyed Andean condors.

Get Enchanted by the Galapagos Isles

 

The Ecuadorian government itself watches over the Galapagos Islands, one of its greatest treasures, providing firm rules for its conservation. Visited by the explorer Pizarro, studied by a young Charles Darwin, and fictionalized by Herman Melville, the largely predator-free archipelago has captured imaginations for years. You’ll see myriad creatures here that are found nowhere else on the planet. The islands you’ll visit vary with the itinerary you select – and with local Galapagos National Park regulations – but you’re guaranteed a thrilling exploration full of hiking, snorkeling, and learning firsthand about this singular setting.

Gate 1 Travel gives you two ways to witness these enchanted isles for yourself before or after visiting mainland Ecuador.

Embark a Thrilling Cruise with Up-Close Access.

Our most popular Galapagos itineraries feature a magnificent cruise expedition aboard the MV Santa Cruz II – a deluxe small ship. Its small size allows it to easily maneuver into small coves, giving your unfettered access to the most remote islands. Generously appointed rooms provide the utmost comfort, and onboard naturalist guides offer fascinating insight into the most diverse wildlife and marine life you’ll ever encounter.

Explore the Galapagos from Your “Base”on Santa Cruz. If cruising doesn’t fit your style, then choose an itinerary that features Santa Cruz as your base. Our headquarters for three or four nights will be the first-class, eco-friendly resort, the Finch Bay Hotel- the only hotel in the island’s capital of Puerto Ayora situated on a beach – from which you can join our expeditions to nearby islands. Travelers who prefer this option like to set their own pace … perhaps opting out of island excursions in favor of beach time or exploring Santa Cruz itself, from the bustle of Darwin Street to the wildlife of Tortuga Bay, where marine iguanas dive and Galapagos crabs scuttle about.

Here are a few of the island we visit on our itineraries:

Santa Cruz is the heart of conservation efforts, home to both the Charles Darwin Research Station, which breeds and rears the endangered Galapagos giant tortoise, and the Rancho Primicias preserve. From resplendent vermilion flycatchers to sleek white-tipped reef sharks, myriad species thrive here in a landscape created by volcanos. The island’s seismic history is evident in a network of lava tunnels and “los Gemelos,”a pair of massive holes formed by the collapse of a magma chamber.

North Seymour, which surfaced from underwater millions of years ago by geologic lift, beckons bird lovers to witness its blue-footed boobies and swallow-tailed gulls, and the largest frigate bird population in the Galapagos. More than 500 land iguanas make their homes at the feet of its dramatic cliffs, while fur sea lions congregate not far away, tending to their pups.

On Bartolome, a steep stairway past lava formations and through bristly “tiquilia plants”leads to a 350-foot peak with breathtaking panoramas of lava-clad Sullivan Bay and the Daphne islets. Bartolome’s best ambassadors are its tiny Galapagos penguins, the only penguins with a natural habitat north of the equator, and whose population is gravely endangered.

Favored by pirates and whalers alike, Isabela is the largest of the Galapagos chain. The seahorse-shaped isle and its surrounding islets vary in personality from the lunar-like landscape of nearby Las Tintoreras to the colorful red-and-black mangroves of Elisabeth Bay, where lava herons take wing above the cavorting sea lions, sea turtles, dolphins, and manta rays.

San Cristobal is the easternmost island and may have been the first one Darwin laid eyes on. Today, it’s still grabbing the attention of visitors with a sea lion rookery, a colony of magnificent frigate birds, and Cerro Brujo (or Wizard’s Hill), a collapsed caldera which formed a white sand beach that is now home to red- and blue-footed boobies, marine iguanas, and a colony of sea lions.

Santiago is home to a rich diversity of wildlife: marine iguanas, sea lions, fur seals, land and sea turtles, and dolphins. Hikers may stroll across black lava landscapes among rust-colored tuff cones, while bird lovers can keep their eyes peeled for flamingoes, Darwin finches, and Galapagos hawks. At Espumilla Beach, sea turtles nest seasonally just a stone’s throw from a white flamingo lagoon.

On Fernandina, the youngest and most pristine of the Galapagos Islands, flightless cormorants hop from rock to rock as Galapagos penguins, sea lions, and fur seals sun themselves. The most active of the volcanic islands, this is the best place to spot the yellow blooms of lava cactus.

Discover Rich Cultures and Enduring Traditions

While Galapagos visitors eagerly seek out the natural splendor of Ecuador, the nation’s greatest resources are its people, going about their daily lives in ways that often reflect generations of tradition. Indigenous people in colorful clothes and fedoras walk to market on tranquil back roads, much as countless generations before them. Farmers from cocoa plantations deliver their crops in modest pickups. Orchid farmers drive their delicate exports to Guayaquil. Even native weavers keep their connection to the earth alive. You can witness all of these traditions with Gate 1 Travel as we introduce you to people who are proud to conserve their culture.

For centuries, the showcase of this culture has been Otavalo – the rural town in the heart of Imbabura province – which hosts what is perhaps the largest traditional market in South America. Since pre-Inca times, weavers and carvers have met here to sell their handiwork. Even now, on its busiest days, the market swallows almost one-third of the city, with Otavalenos in traditional dress tending colorful stalls bearing jewelry, leather, pottery, and clothing.

In mountainous Papallacta, visitors discover a tradition locals have enjoyed for eons: the pleasure of soaking in hot springs. The thermal springs beckon weary travelers day and night, with pools to linger in, surrounded by views of Andean grandeur.

Experience Ecuador’s Cosmopolitan Charms in its Cities

The rhythm of life couldn’t be more different in Quito, the country’s capital and hub of political activity. The second highest capital in the world (9,350 feet), it is also one of the best-preserved, with it its historic center declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can literally walk through Ecuador’s rich history here, encapsulated in a stone mural outside the Congress Building, and revealed in cobbled streets lined with pastel houses, grand colonial-era buildings, the Presidential and Archbishop’s palaces, and the cathedrals around Independence Plaza.

Warmed by Pacific breezes, Guayaquil has cast off its past as little sister to Quito, making a splash in recent years with a massive riverside development, Malecon 2000, brimming with shops, restaurants, and monuments. More populous than Quito, the city likes to say it has more style, too, from architectural gems like the glass-and-metal Crystal Palace to a new abundance of galleries and cutting edge exhibition spaces.

Being trendy is the furthest thing from the minds of those who call Cuenca home. The stunning colonial architecture and wrought-iron balconies bedecked with flowers create a more timeless, storybook feel. It’s so enchanting that more than 6,000 American retirees have embraced the simple life here amidst the clean air of the Andes. As you stroll its charming streets, it’ll be easy for you to see why they stay.

Explore in Comfort at a Terrific Value

From the wilds of the Amazon to the heights of the Andean countryside, Ecuador is stunningly diverse, despite being smaller than the U.S. state of Nevada. No matter which itinerary calls to you, our carefully chosen hotels provide all the amenities and services you expect from Gate 1 Travel to ensure you’ll explore in comfort. What’s more, thanks to our full roster of tours and features, you can be sure you’re traveling at the best value available. Join us!

Follow this link to our exciting Ecuador Tours. Or call to reserve, 1-800-682-3333!

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Colombia: Welcoming Culture, Colonial Splendor & Magnificent Beauty

If one place in all of Colombia symbolizes how far the country has come since its founding, it is The Vaults in the gorgeous Caribbean city of Cartagena. These age-old archways once housed armaments and, later, prisoners. Today, they brim with color and vibrant energy, a thriving artisans’ center overflowing with creativity, life and handicrafts lovingly made by locals so that their culture can endure.

Wandering the colorful shops and stalls of the The Vaults, it’s easy to see how Colombia’s long and sometimes tumultuous history has given way to life everlasting, how past civil unrest has blossomed into creative freedom. Such is life in all of Colombia. We’ll come back to Cartagena in a moment; it is, after all, the perfect place to begin and end any discussion about this remarkable, phoenix-like country. But first, join us in this edition of Connections as we delve more deeply into this South American success story.

Bogota: Athens of South America

“Mi casa es su casa.” It’s a greeting you’re likely to hear wherever you go in Colombia with Gate 1 Travel. Indeed, surrounded by warm and welcoming people, you’ll quickly feel at home here. The truth is, it’s a place that surpasses all travelers’ expectations – full of eye-opening surprises and lush, emerald green valleys and mountains. These days, locals and visitors alike are fond of saying that there is only one risk in traveling to Colombia, and that’s the risk of wanting to stay.

The bustling capital city of Bogota provides a great introduction to Colombian traditions and culture. Often called “The Athens of South America,” it boasts many universities and libraries and more than 60 museums and galleries. Its heady mix of old and modern make it one of the most dynamic and engaging cities in the world.

The historic La Candelaria colonial district is a great place to peer into its rich past. Spanish Colonial, baroque and Art Deco architecture span the centuries here. Home to half a dozen universities, it is also the proud host of the Botero Museum, dedicated to the work of Fernando Botero, who made a name for himself by creating humorous political critiques. The Gold Museum is also here, a collection of more than 36,000 pre-Columbian pieces, one of the largest of its kind. One of its highlights is the diminutive Muisca Raft, believed to have ties to the legendary lost city of El Dorado.

To mingle with Bogotanes, browse the flower market in Bolivar Square. Or step into a game of Tejo, the national pastime that you’re likely to see throughout the city. The game originated with the ancient Chibcha people and involves throwing a metal disc across a 60-foot-long playing space at a target that’s been marked on a board.

Zona Cafetera: Land of Coffee and Incredible Beauty

Colombia is a country of breathtaking beauty, and few places prove this like the Cocora Valley. Soaring mountains, sweeping valleys and vast swathes of coffee plants dominate the landscape of Los Nevados National Park here, supporting a rich array of bird life from tiny hummingbirds to yellow-eared parrots. But one feature in the valley stands tall above all others: the towering wax palm trees. These are the tallest palms in the world, reaching up to 200 feet.

Once you arrive in Manizales, you’ll want to linger a long while … over its perfectly roasted coffee. Here, in the heart of Colombia’s Zona Cafetera, you’ll learn that there’s more to java than what you drip into your pot. Our tour of a coffee plantation reveals the subtle aromas and flavors that go into the perfect cup. It may be no surprise that Manizales produces so many coffee beans; this is a dramatically fertile place, a verdant patchwork of green parks, mountain views and flowing rivers. During your visit, you can visit the massive Cathedral and admire its elaborate gold canopy and huge stained-glass windows.

The town of Salento is nearby and visiting here is like stepping back in time. There was a time when the main route to Bogota passed right through here. But when the road was diverted elsewhere, development stopped, leaving Salento to make a name for itself around its untouched architecture and its relaxed way of life. It beautiful architecture and colorful balconies invite you to linger a little while.

Medellin: City of Eternal Spring

Earlier, we mentioned Cartagena’s Vaults as a symbol of Colombia’s turnaround from its darker days. But nestled in the Aburra Valley, surrounded by steep–sloped mountains, the city of Medellin is the true success story. It has not only rid itself of undesirable factions; it has re-imagined itself into an innovative city that serves all its citizens amidst a landscape of green parks, public art and contemporary architecture. Its most distinct feature is the public transit system, part below ground and part above. Look upward, and you’ll see gondolas – locally known as the “metrocable” – floating in the mountain air, conveying commuters between their mountainside homes and the city below. Without them, it would take hours for many people to get to work on zig-zagging byways and congested, exhaust-filled streets. Earlier this month, this lofty transportation system was on display at the UN-Habitat’s World Urban Forum as an example of adapting to growing populations.

It is a fascinating city that’s worth a closer look, made all the more pleasant by its temperate climate that has earned it the nickname “The City of Eternal Spring.” Its main plaza, the Parque de Bolivar, is anchored by the Metropolitan Cathedral, a vision of Romanesque wonder. Botero Plaza celebrates the city’s native son, adorned with the artist’s huge metal sculptures. And in the upscale Poblado district, known locally as Las Manzanas de Oro, or the Golden Apples, you can explore upscale shops and green parks.

Cartagena: Colonial Caribbean Treasure

Cartagena is quite distinct from the rest of Colombia, with its scenic setting on the Caribbean Sea. It is arguably one of the continent’s cultural treasures, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site for its intact historic walled city and maze of cobbled alleys.Tropical and colorful and full of life, it is rich with incredible architecture. Its sprawling fortifications that once protected it from marauding pirates are the most extensive in South America. The city’s colonial district is graced by colorful balconied buildings, the Santo Domingo Church (with its unusually wide central nave and stunning baroque altar) and the Plaza de Bolivar, a haven of large shade trees. The city’s Gold Museum boasts a significant collection from the pre-Hispanic period.

Then there are The Vaults, known locally as Las Bovedas. The history of these arcaded dungeons dates back 200 years, when Spaniards built them as storage units for munitions and supplies, only to have them converted to prisons. At high tide, prisoners had sea water up to their knees. They embody a fascinating story of Colombia, reflecting a country that was founded by conquest, bolstered by coffee, tarnished by conflict, only to rise up as one of the world’s most intriguing destinations, rich with a welcoming and vibrant culture, magnificent architecture and spectacular beauty.

Our Tour Manager Know Colombia Because They ARE Colombian

There’s nothing like a local to show you around. When you join Gate 1 Travel in Colombia, you’re in the good hands of some of the most welcoming and knowledgeable Tour Managers in the world. Simply spend an hour with any of our experts onsite and you’ll quickly see that the only they love more than their country is introducing Gate 1 travelers to it. They know their cities and towns inside out, and will lead you to the most fascinating corners where Colombian culture comes to life.

And of course, you’ll enjoy the signature Gate 1 value as you settle in to comfortable, centrally located accommodations, savor delicious Colombian cuisine and participate in a generous array of included activities.

Join Gate 1 Travel in Colombia and experience its colorful culture, genuine hospitality and rich history firsthand!